Chechnya's Stricter Dress Codes: Is Culture a Means of Control?

Image generated by Gemini AI

Lately, Chechnya's leaders have put in place new rules about how women should look. Some think these actions are less about keeping traditions alive and more about increasing control over politics and society. The newest rule stops women from wearing clothes that have parts of traditional Chechen men's clothing.

The No Male Elements Rule

The Culture Ministry said that designers can't use styles that go against old ways and values. One big example is the Gazyri (or Kazyri). These are decorative pockets that used to hold cartridges and are usually on the chest of the Cherkeska (Circassian coat).

The Ministry said that the Gazyri have a long history and meaning. Fighters used them to carry gunpowder, and they stand for bravery, respect, and men protecting others. They believe that putting these things on women's clothes disrespects what they mean and goes against old traditions.

More and More Rules

This isn't the only new rule. Other recent rules include:

Headscarves: In October, women had to cover their heads in public. Officials even said they would talk to those who didn't wear a headscarf.

Niqab Ban: It might sound strange, but authorities also banned the niqab, which is a veil that only shows the eyes.

These rules about being modest only apply to people who live in Chechnya. This means that Chechen women dress differently from visitors from other parts of Russia.

Ties to Family and Business

Some people think these rules are linked to Ramzan Kadyrov, the head of Chechnya, and his close circle. They suggest it could be a way to gain more political power and business advantages.

Political Positions: The Culture Ministry, which announced the latest rule, is led by Isa Ibragimov, who is related to Kadyrov. Also, Kadyrov's daughter, Aishat Kadyrova, used to be in charge of the ministry before becoming Deputy Prime Minister for Social Issues.

Firdaws Fashion House: Aishat Kadyrova started the Firdaws fashion house. It sells modest fashion that is supposed to be true to Chechen style. Some experts say that these dress codes help businesses like Firdaws by protecting them in the market. This is especially true because the EU and US have placed sanctions on the company and Aishat Kadyrova, which limits how they can do business internationally.

It's About Control, Not Culture

Many political experts and human rights activists don't believe the official reasons for keeping traditions alive. They say these rules are really about state control. People often say, It's not about culture, it's about power.

Complete Control: Ruslan Aisin, a political scientist, thinks these rules show that the Kadyrov family is trying to strengthen its power. To do this, they are taking steps to make sure everyone follows their ideas. He compares it to North Korea, where the government controls everything, even how people look, to make sure everyone is loyal.

Goes Against Customs: Svetlana Anokhina, who started the Marem crisis group, and a Chechen ethnographer both say that these bans go against real Chechen customs (Adats). In the past, people didn't tell women what to wear. Instead, they would talk to the men in their family. The ethnographer also says that women used to wear things that looked like men's military gear as decoration without any problems.

Kadyrov as Father of the Nation: Anokhina believes that Kadyrov is putting himself above tradition by making public rules and letting women be shamed in public. She says he is acting like a dictator and a father of the nation.

Political Tool: Fatima Gazieva of PeaceWomen Across the Globe says that the government uses these rules to gain support from conservative groups and to show the Kremlin that they can maintain order. Gazieva says that if the authorities really cared about tradition, they would work to stop violence and honor killings, protect women, and give them freedom to choose, instead of controlling what they wear.

More Rules on Beauty and Modeling

The rules don't just cover clothing. Authorities have also started to target the beauty industry and advertising.

Modeling and Social Media: After closing some beauty salons for a short time, officials like Amir Sugaiypov and the local Mufti met with owners of clothing stores, salons, and modeling agencies. They told them to remove any indecent content online that showed models' movements or looks instead of just the clothing. They said this kind of content destroys the republic's image.

Only Some Are Punished: Some say that these rules on salons and advertising are not fair. While many salons were closed (because of license issues), some say that certain salons that are owned by people connected to the ruling family are still open. Aishat Kadyrova even announced that she was opening a big new spa complex called Nebula.

Sociologists and legal experts say that these rules are a way for the authorities to show their power and stop people from taking their own initiative. They believe that the traditions being talked about are not really about culture, but are ways to control people that can be put in place or removed depending on what the government wants at the time.